Sherie Muijs Spring/Summer 2015-16 Collection
In an industry that speaks a visual language, absolutely inundated with choice, it is the ones with the ability to edit and refine that make the most noise. Local designer Sherie Muijs is one of these people. Having refined her practice down to creating a small collection of impeccably crafted, classic shirts, Sherie Muijs – fresh from a two year stint in Berlin, gets her design muscle moving again.
For her spring collection, we find a considered edit of shirts that are slightly different to what would be usually expected. Largely informed by a recent travel through India, these shirts are an impulsive response to a country she was so hugely moved by – the result of ideas she has instinctively acted upon while they were fresh in her mind.
Timed with the refresh of her beautiful online store, Sherie and I spoke about her time spent in Berlin, her current collection and its collaborators, and what it means to be a ‘doer’…
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AG: When you think of Berlin, what scene first comes to mind?
I often think back to Karl Marx Allee, the opulent ex-socialist boulevard in what was east Berlin, where my husband and I lived for just under two years. I particularly enjoyed the commute to my studio, biking past our local cinema Kino International. It’s a beautiful cinema, built in the early 60’s and features large posters on the outside of the theatre, showing the film of the week which are still painted by hand! I would often go there, followed by a gimlet or two at my favourite cocktail bar Bar Babette across the road. We celebrated my 29th birthday there last year, after seeing 20,000 Days on Earth, and often think back to how wonderful that night with friends was.
AG: What do you think was the most valuable thing you learnt while living in Berlin?
I learnt so much about myself and about how I want my life to look. I’ve returned home with more determination and focused intent. I learnt what it means to be a doer — not a to-doer. We’re surrounded by a world of opportunities, but they’re only realised when followed through with action and by putting yourself on the line.
AG: To you, what words best describe your experience of India?
Diverse, vibrant, pungent, mystical, enchanting.
India had a far deeper impact on me than I could have ever anticipated. It’s a place where everything speaks to you; the vast and varying landscapes, the vibrancy of the food, the gentleness and depth of the people.
It’s a place of extremes, beauty and discovery.
AG: Can you share with us a few of your ‘sketchbook’ ideas behind this collection?
My designs this season have been in response to my time in India. I studied India’s traditional clothing and was inspired by the way in which they so effortlessly layer. Paying particular attention to the shapes and silhouettes. This season’s shirts reflect the simplicity of their day-to-day dress-code with clean lines, squared edges and few trim details. I love the subtle variations of their traditional attire and love the sense of unity this brings.
AG: Your new collection investigates the idea of ‘garments that offer an ease of movement’. Can you expand on the ideas behind this and where this inspiration came from?
While traveling through India, I watched the men and women at work. As I observed these people build, clean, manually transport, I noticed how their clothing helps enable them to do so, complementing and facilitating what is a very labour intensive lifestyle.
This season was inspired by this with shirts that have under-sleeve gussets, an economical addition to clothing to allow for room to move; shirts have splits at the side seams, opening as you to walk, crouch and move. All shirts have easy access to trouser pockets, designed to be worn as an over-shirt and to be layered.
AG: Tell us about your collaboration with Marta Buda this season.
It has been an absolute pleasure working with such a gifted woman. A woman who does everything she can to care for the environment and to support good design. Marta’s work has integrity; drawing me to collaborate with her this season.
I visited a Tibetan Refugee Centre in Darjeeling, where refugees from Tibet hand-spin wool, dye and hand-weave designs into rather sizable rugs. They naturally dye the wool using local herbs and vegetables, a process by which I was most taken.
A common spice used in Indian cuisine is turmeric and has the vibrancy of colour I was looking for. Aside from colour and taste, turmeric has powerful anti-inflammatory effects and is a very strong antioxidant proven to have healing qualities. Marta tested a few variations and came up with a special natural recipe and has personally hand-dyed each piece.
The handwoven scarf was originally created especially for our look-book as a styling component for this season. Marta has hand made this on a table loom and takes her an entire day to make. This beautiful piece is now available online and more are available for pre-order.
AG: And lastly, can you tell us what you’re enjoying the most about being back home?
It’s wonderful to be near the ocean again, to breathe in that salty air! I’ve enjoyed the few moments this year, when I’ve been able to escape to our very humble, very typical, kiwi bach by the lake. I had missed being surrounded by the water most. The ability to swim at any given moment. Now, whenever given the chance, I head to the coast; rain, hail or shine.
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